Water

Water, Fresh and Otherwise

Over the years we have constantly revised and updated the way we handle water in camp. We're not there yet, but it's getting better every year!

Water Usage

In 2024 we used 2305 gallons of fresh water in camp (6.2 gallons per camper per day) as follows:

1000
gallons used in the kitchen
600
gallons used for canteen filling and drinks
454
gallons used for showers and toilets
251
gallons used in RV and for build

We generated at least 1000 gallons of grey water from the kitchen, and I'm estimating 600 gallons of grey and black water in the gayflower (we had no way of measuring that).

Fresh Water Sources

Where does fresh water come in from?

  1. The build team RV has a tank that holds about 176 gallons. We usually fill that in Reno at the GSR RV Resort (where we stay for one night before driving up.) Sierra Site Services can also fill this for a flat rate of $180.
  2. The Gayflower, as of 2024, has seven IBC tanks for a total of 1990 gallons
    1. Three in front hold 330 gallons each
    2. Four in back hold 250 gallons each
    3. The tanks in back need to be replaced because they stink of their previous fruit juice contents
    4. They can be filled in Gerlach or Empire for about 50 cents a gallon. Don't fill up in Empire - that water tastes like sulphur, it smells of rotten eggs, and people don't like to drink it or even shower with it. The official water from the Gerlach General Improvement District is good.
  3. We can rent a 500 gallon tank from Sierra Site Services for $1397 including OSS fees which comes filled, with a pump and a 15' hose. Additional fills are $2 cash per gallon. Water tastes great and service is amazing.

Grey Water Disposal

Where does grey water go?

  1. The build team RV has a grey water tank that holds about 75 gallons. We usually dump that in Reno at the GSR RV Resort (where we stay for one night.)
    1. This tank needs to be emptied a couple of times during the burn. In 2024 we figured out a method to hand pump it out to the Gayflower. You can theoretically flag down "RV Pumpout" trucks at the event but I didn't see any of those in 2024.
  2. The Gayflower has five 250 gallon grey water tanks. In 2024 they were almost completely filled up.
  3. We can rent a 250 gallon tank from Sierra Site Services for an additional $250 and they will charge $375 each time to pump it out.

Black Water Disposal

If you flush the toilets in the Gayflower, it goes into the Gayflower's five 250 gallon black water tanks. In 2024 they were approximately half full.

Vendors

Sierra Site Services
Office: 888-458-8777 
Mobile: 530-957-5049 Contact there is Michelle Haley <michelle@sierrasiteservices.com> and they have an office on playa.

Moving Water in Camp

As of 2024, we don't quite have the water system fully dialed in, but we've learned a lot over the years and it feels like we are close to a painless water solution on playa. A part of that involves getting fresh water from the tanks where it's used, and grey water to the tanks where it can be collected or removed from playa.

Fresh Water Well Pumps

We have a few of the Harbor Freight 1HP Well Pump. (Manual) These pumps seem to work really well, and they have their own bladder so that the pump doesn't have to flip on and off frequently shortening it's life. Basically, they will maintain pressure in a pressurized water system, like the water supply in the Gayflower or the Kitchen Fort, or even when attached to a hose.

image.pngThis is what Sierra Site Services delivers attached to their fresh water tank. It is also what we use in the Gayflower for the fresh water system. And we have a new backup in a box in the Gayflower.

Pro Tip: When delivered, our pump was not primed. To prime it, you have to open a little nut and pour in some water until it overflows. We did this using a plastic bag with the corner cut off.

Pro Tip: Do not run this kind of pump dry for more than 10 seconds.

Pro Tip: The tank must be pressurized to 23 psi which can be done with a bicycle pump.

Only ever use this kind of tank for potable water.

Sewer Pumps

We bought two of the Harbor Freight 3/4 HP Submersible Sump Pumps (Manual

58029_W3.jpgThese were intended to move grey water around camp quickly, say, from the kitchen to the gayflower. They pump water into a thick red 2" hose that looks like this:

Screenshot 2024-09-09 at 4.05.21 PM.pngWe have a bunch of those hoses - probably 150 feet worth.

There are two problems with this method of pumping grey water. The first is that the sump pump is meant to sit in a bucket that fills up with grey water causing the ball to float which turns on the pump. That means it never pumps the bottom n inches of water which can be a lot depending on the size of the bucket you put it in. The second is that those 2" hoses fill up with grey water and once the bucket is empty, they stay filled up with grey water... there is no way to cause the pump to push out the remaining contents all the way to wherever you're going. This means there is a manual step, after pumping grey water, involving walking the red hose from the source to the destination to gravity-force out all the water.

The grey water tank provided by Sierra is low-slung and looks like this:

qi-1014-hauling.jpgWith this tank, it's not a big problem to hand-caress the grey water from the hose into the tank. However, if you are trying to move grey water up to the Gayflower, where the tanks are probably 5' off the ground, it's not so easy.

For the last mile, we have these little Water Bug Style Pumps:

Screenshot 2024-09-09 at 4.24.32 PM.png
That can be completely submersed in water and it will suck up virtually everything and pump it up through a narrow hose, which gets the last little bits of water up and out. It's slow, though, compared to the big sewer pumps.

IN SHORT we still don't have a great way to move grey water from the Kitchen Fort to either the Gayflower or a Sierra Grey Water Tank. It's just a bit of a manual messy process. This is something we will continue to work on for 2025.

 

The Kitchen Fort Water System

The kitchen fort, delivered in 2023, is a marvel in camp automation, allowing us to bring a commercial-quality working kitchen to playa and start using it without any setup. However, we're still learning about the best way to hook it up to water.

Fresh Water

There are two separately plumbed fresh water systems: one for sinks and one for the ice maker.

Each system has:

In 2023 and 2024, our idea was to fill the water tanks every time they ran out of water. We thought this was a nice idea because it got the water team involved every once in a while and avoided the risk of the kitchen using up all of our camp water by mistake.

Besides the obvious inconvenience of filling the tanks again and again, the other problem with this system is that there is no way to see when the water tanks fill up, other than the fact that they just start spilling on the ground.

For 2025, I'd like to try disconnecting the food fort's water tanks and pumps, and just providing pressurized water to the kitchen at all times. This can be done by connecting hoses to both the sink and ice water inlets and turning off the shut off valves that let water get down into the tanks. We would also unplug the two fresh water pumps inside the kitchen.

Ice Maker

The ice maker system is just like the fresh water system, with its own tanks and pump and shut off valve. In 2023 and 2024 we were underwhelmed by the amount of ice this system could produce (it was nothing close to what it should have been able to produce based on specs) and overwhelmed by the amount of cleanish water that it dumped on the ground through an open spout under the trailer as a part of it's too-frequent "clean" cycle. In 2025 we want to give it one last chance by keeping it connected to pressurized water so it never runs out of water to see what it can produce.

Grey Water

There are grey water tanks under the kitchen which probably need to be emptied daily. The waste spout of these tanks is only a few inches above the ground so we still haven't figured out a great way to move this grey water into the Gayflower or into a Sierra tank, other than manually pumping it around.

One option to explore for 2025 is putting a Sierra tank right next to the kitchen and constructing a simple hose that goes from the kitchen grey tank to the Sierra grey tank inlet. We didn't have the right plumbing parts to attempt this in 2024. We probably need a Valterra T01-0094VP or Valterra T01-0091VP which can convert to the grey water outlet to a standard hose.

2025 Water Plan

This is just the outline of how I think we can do water in 2025, based on everything I remember from 2024.

Gayflower 

The Gayflower can basically be treated as it's own unit unconnected to anything else:

If we can replace the smelly old IBC tanks in the Gayflower and get clean water from Gerlach, we should also use the Gayflower water through a hose as camper canteen filling water.

Food Fort 

For 2025 we'll run the Food Fort directly off of Sierra Site Services fresh and grey tanks.

As a backup plan if we don't like the taste of the Gayflower water again, we can get fresh water for canteens/drinking water from the SSS tank, too, but this is more expensive.

Layout

This allows the Gayflower to be placed anywhere, but the Food Fort needs to be placed close to the SSS tanks and thus near the street or fire lane.

2026 And Beyond

  1. Let's get some inline water meters to better judge how much water we're using
  2. Ultimately I'd like to get the SSS usage down to zero and rely solely on the Gayflower. It's way cheaper that way.

2025 Gayflower Wish List

IMG_1366.jpg

Introduction

After two years in operation we have a wish list for some improvements and repairs that could be made to the Gayflower. These would have to be done in Empire, NV in the spring.

Priority
Project
Status
5 Urgent
Fix Leaks Around Fresh Water Pump
The main green fresh water pump has a few little drips. There is a second leak on the thin brass fitting where water goes off to the swamp cooler.
Planned for spring 2025
5 Urgent
Replace IBC Totes With New
The four IBC totes in the back were used for fruit juice concentrate and cause the water to smell poorly. One of the three IBC totes in the front (the rearmost one) has a broken shutoff valve.
Planned for spring 2025
5 Urgent

Seal Waste Line at Second Urinal

We haven't been able to use the second urinal because the waste line leaks.


3 Medium

Leaks around sink bases


5 Urgent

Leak in Grey Water Connecting Hoses

The one we noticed was probably the rearmost, passenger-side grey water holding tank.

4 Important

Steel Support For IBC Totes in Back

Weld in place a steel structure to support the weight of the water tanks in back

4 Important

Secondary Containment for Grey / Black Water Tanks
There is an interesting problem that if the grey or black water tanks leak or the hoses connecting them come apart, the contents go onto the playa.

There is a black liner there of some sort but it will not contain anything.

 

One option to consider -- not sure how easy this is -- is using a EPDM pond liner and constructing a full "bathtub" around the base of the tank area.


4 Important

Level Indicators for Waste Water Tanks
Apparently there are already sensors connected to the grey and black water tanks to measure the level, but they are not hooked up to anything that can be used to read their output.





Gayflower: Spring 2025 Plan

Reference Photo:

IMG_1731.jpg

IMG_1710.jpg

0. General conditions

  1. Install plywood on rear wall to support the plumbing stack for the pump outlet.
  2. Get a big tool box and parts box to organize all our plumbing tools and parts

1. IBC Tote Replacement

Replace all seven totes with new ones and completely replace all plumbing connecting them.

Design considerations

New plumbing configuration

IMG_2254.jpgIMG_2255.jpg

A IBC tote 
B 2" Camlock valve, preinstalled on tote
C 2" Camlock to 3/4" Male Garden Hose adapter
D 2' long 3/4" Female to Female Garden Hose Extender (get some 1' as well to minimize slop)
E

3/4" Garden Hose splitter with valves (F - M - M)

F 5' long 3/4" Garden Hose (M - F)
G

3/4" Garden Hose three way splitter with valves (F - M - M - M)

H

50' 3/4" Garden Hose (M - F)

I

Hole in floor

J

2" Female Camlock to 2" Male NPT Adapter, Stainless Steel (example)

K

2" Female NPT to 1" Female NPT

L

1" Male NPT to 1" Sharkbite

M

1" PEX-B

N

1" - 1" - 3/4" Reducing Tee (Sharkbite)

O

1" Sharkbite Elbows

P

1" Sharkbite to 1" Male NPT

Q

Pump, with 1" Female NPT inlet

R

3/4" PEX-B

S

3/4" Sharkbite to 3/4" Male NPT

T

3/4" Female NPT to 3/4" Male Garden Hose

U

3/4" Garden Hose Shutoff Valve (M-F)

V

3/4" Garden Hose Male to Male Coupler

The pump requires 1" diameter input, so it draws from the nearest tote using 1" PEX-B (put together with sharkbite fittings). That tote, and the other six, are all interconnected using 3/4" hoses, which allow the water to seek a level between them.


2. Evaporative Cooler Supply Rerouting

The water supply line for the evaporative cooler should be rerouted so it does not interfere with that IBC tote. Also, it might be responsible for the leak at the top of the pump.


3. Rework plumbing above the pump

The main goal here is to make something that allows for quickly swapping out a failed pump, and eliminate the PVC+glue that is prone to leaks.

IMG_2257.jpg

A Existing DRUMMOND 1 HP Stainless Steel Shallow Well Pump and Tank with Pressure Control Switch - 950 GPH
B 1" Female NPT output
C 1" Male NPT to 1" Sharkbite U140LF 
D 1" PEX-B Pipe
E Sharkbite 1" Check Valve (U2020-0000LF)

Provide Sharkbite disconnect tongs (U715) for winterizing.
F 1" Sharkbite Elbow
G

1" Sharkbite PVC Fittings

Also provide different connections because I don't know what is over there

H

Existing water line, splitting to cold water and hot water

I

1" - 1" - 3/4" Reducing Tee (Sharkbite)

J

3/4" PEX-B Pipe

K

Brass Push Drop-Ear Elbow (3/4" Sharkbite to 3/4" FNPT) (U340LF)
Can be screwed onto plywood so that FNPT is facing out

L

3/4" Male NPT to 3/4" Male Garden Hose (amazon)

M

3/4 in. Evaporative Cooler FGH x MGH Sill Cock

N

1/4 in. x 1/8 in. Evaporative Cooler Angle Needle Valve

O

1/4 in. Evaporative Cooler Copper Tube leading to swamp cooler

P

This section to be mounted on plywood 
Use some 1" and 3/4" pipe hangers like this to make it strong

Consolidated Shopping List

This list has been added to the manifest on the Reno Warehouse (2025) page.

Qty Item Vendor

Notes

4 1" Male NPT to 1" Sharkbite Sharkbite U140LF  
10' 1" PEX-B Pipe - White Home Depot
5' 3/4" PEX-B Pipe - White Home Depot
2 Sharkbite 1" Check Valve Sharkbite U2020-0000LF
1 Sharkbite Disconnect Tongs 1" Sharkbite U715

1 Sharkbite Disconnect Tongs 3/4" Sharkbite U713

7 Sharkbite 1" Elbow Sharkbite U260LF
3 Sharkbite 1" Coupling 
Sharkbite U020LF

1 Sharkbite PVC Transition (1") Sharkbite UIP4020

1 Sharkbite PVC Transition (3/4") Sharkbite UIP4016

1 Sharkbite 1" to 3/4" Reducing Coupling Sharkbite U060LF

3 Sharkbite 1" - 1" - 3/4" Reducing Tee Sharkbite U416LF
1 Sharkbite Brass Push Drop Ear Elbow 
(3/4" Sharkbite to 3/4" FNPT)
Sharkbite U340LF

1 3/4" Male NPT to 3/4" Male Garden Hose Amazon comes as a two pack to provide spare
12 1" Pipe Hangers Home Depot 12 total needed. Check quantity per pack, don't order 12 packs!
10 3/4" Pipe Hangers Home Depot 10 total needed. Check quantity per pack, don't order 10 packs!
1 1/4 in. x 1/8 in. Evaporative Cooler Angle Needle Valve Home Depot (link)  
50 feet 1/4 in. Evaporative Cooler Copper Tube Home Depot (link)
1 3/4 in. Evaporative Cooler FGH x MGH Sill Cock Home Depot (link)
1 1/4 in. x 1/8 in. Evaporative Cooler CC and MPT Male Union Home Depot (link) spare part
1 1/4 in. Compression Brass Nut Fitting Home Depot (link) spare part
1 Mini Copper Tubing Cutter Home Depot (link) tool
20 Copper tube straps Home Depot (link) need 20 total, not 20 packs
7

Rebottled or new IBC totes

330 gallon
2" Camlock Valve

The Cary Company
EST104097
To ship to Empire
7 2" Camlock to 3/4" Male Garden Hose The Cary Company or
Amazon
 
2

3/4" Female - Female Garden Hose

5' Length

Amazon
3 3/4" Female - Female Garden Hose
2' Length
Amazon
3 3/4" Female - Female Garden Hose 
1' Length
Amazon
2

3/4" Male - Female Garden Hose

6' Length

Amazon
1 3/4" Garden Hose Y-Splitter With Valves Amazon
2 3/4" Garden Hose Three way splitter With Valves Amazon
2 3/4" Garden Hose, 50' Amazon
2 2" Camlock to 2" Male NPT Adapter The Cary Company
or
Amazon (two included)

2 2" Female NPT to 1" Female NPT Reducer Amazon
10' 1" PEX-B - White Home Depot
2' 3/4" PEX-B - White Home Depot
2 3/4" Sharkbite to 3/4" Male NPT Sharkbite U134LF

2 3/4" Female NPT to 3/4" Male Garden Hose Amazon
2 Garden hose shutoff valve
3/4" male to 3/4" female
Amazon
1 set Garden Hose Couplers (M-M and F-F) Amazon
1 3/4" Plywood
24" x 48" panels
Home Depot in Reno

They sell precut 24x48 pieces (or buy 4'x8' pieces and cut in four)

 

Consider buying an extra 14 to replace crappy shelves in Empire Fort

20 Wood-to-metal self-driving screws
#10 diameter
1 1/2"

Home Depot in Reno
(link)

We might have them in the tool fort

1 Teflon Tape Home Depot


1 Tru-Blu Pipe Thread Sealant with PTFE
Home Depot


1 PEX-B cutter

I might already have this in the LED Lab

1 2" Ratcheting PVC cutter Home Depot


1 Assortment of wood screws Amazon


1 Storage packout on wheels for all plumbing parts and tools Home Depot
Milwaukee Packout
probably best to buy this at Home Depot in person

Gayflower Leak Prevention

If one of the black or grey water tanks leaks, it pretty much goes straight onto the playa. There was a small leak in 2024 mostly caught in a bucket. This page is mostly a thought experiment in how we could solve this by constructing a bathtub out of a pond liner.

The idea

We install a "bathtub" around the entire grey/black water tank area to serve as secondary containment. This could be made out of a 45mil EPDM Pond Liner which seems like it would be bulletproof. There is also something called RPE which is even stronger.

The pond liner would be folded in the corners as follows:

IMG_2258.jpg

It is probably enough for the sides of the liner to be 8" - 12" to create a large basin that could handle a serious spill.

At the front of the truck, the corner folds would be permanently glued together with EPDM pond liner adhesive.

At the rear of the truck, we would construct a low gate (like on the back of a pickup truck), hinged at the bottom, out of wood, with very heavy duty latches holding it up.  The gate would be connected to the pond liner. It would remain up/closed during the week to seal the bathtub and provide protection. It could also be lowered off-playa to drain the tanks using the hoses provided. In the event of a an emergency spill, we would pump the grey water out of the bathtub before attempting to open the hinged door.

Remaining Questions

I don't know how easy it would be to retrofit this, since there is a subfloor above the tanks. Here are some questions to study:

  1. How hard is it to work in that crawlspace?
  2. How is the subfloor above supported? Is it supported entirely from the sides, or are there columns coming down in the middle which would interfere with layout out a pond liner?
    1. If there are columns of some sort, can they be removed temporarily so that the pond liner, with some protection, can be slipped underneath.
    2. Otherwise would we be able to do two separate pond liners, for left and right sides of the truck?
  3. What are the exact dimensions of everything?
  4. While we're working on this, could we reinforce the subfloor in back which holds the fresh water tanks?

2025 Shortcut

For 2025, knowing that there is already a little bit of a black liner on the floor (as seen in this picture), we could probably improve the situation a lot by just extending the liner in the very rear to create that flap in the back. This can be done without taking out the tanks and relining everything. It would probably be sufficient to prevent leaks like this year's small leak, although it would not be that helpful in case of a more significant failure.

293282660_342874988052329_720694618782060161_n.jpg

How we might do this:

  1. Get a 2x10 board (at least the length that the interior is wide, probably 101"). Maybe this is 2 pieces of 1" plywood glued together? Cut it to size in Empire.
  2. Get a bunch of hinges so it can open and close
  3. Get some latches for the sides and middle to hold it closed
  4. Get a big sheet of super thick EPDM, say, 15' x 3'. Glue it to the existing liner and then run it up the side of the wood board.

There is not that much space for the new door behind the rearmost tanks. It might have to be mounted in the steel frame of the truck doors.